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<P><FONT size=2>This story was sent to you by: W. Brad Schlegel</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>--------------------</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>Always in
season</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>--------------------</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>Vendors and shoppers at the Waverly Farmers' Market don't let a
little thing like winter keep them apart.</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>By Elizabeth Large</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>Sun Staff</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>January 26, 2005</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>It's 37 degrees and a
cold, misty rain is falling. Not exactly farmers' market kind of weather, but
hundreds of people have bundled themselves up in parkas and raincoats to shop at
the outdoor Waverly market, the only one in the Baltimore area open
year-round.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Some shoppers balance umbrellas with their bags as they stroll
from stand to stand; others just hunch their shoulders to keep the icy rain from
going down the backs of their collars. It seems to be getting colder, wetter and
grayer as the morning wears on.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>But as bleak as it is, this is a pretty good day for the market.
Dave Reid, shivering slightly at the Reid Orchard stand, says the worst day he
remembers was a Saturday a few years ago when it was 10 degrees.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"We couldn't put any fruit out because it would freeze after 15
or 20 minutes," he says. He and his family ended up selling out of the back of
the truck, where a heater was running.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Except for Christmas, the Waverly Farmers' Market in the 400
block of E. 32nd St. has been open every Saturday for 15 years. That includes
New Year's Day of this year, which had a good turnout because it was sunny.
Dedicated market-goers remember that after 2003's record snowstorm - more than 2
feet of snow - two vendors still showed up: one from Hampden (Whiskey Island)
and one from Pennsylvania, a 2 1/2 -hour drive away (Black Rock
Orchard).</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"We're not fair-weather marketers, and we take a lot of pride in
it," says Barbie Maniscalco, who sells artisanal breads and pastries from
Washington's Uptown Bakers. She admits (with a damp smile) that she thought
twice about coming this miserable morning. But then she looked at her 2004
calendar and found that the same Saturday a year ago it was 17 degrees. She had
made a note on the calendar that she still sold everything she had
brought.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"Don't be a wuss," she told herself and got to the market by its
7 a.m. opening. She'll stay till noon or until she sells out, whichever comes
first.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"We take care of our customers, and they take good care of us,"
she says, as a regular arrives with a sample of bread pudding for her made from
last week's leftover tea cakes.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>In the summer, 35 vendors have stands at the Waverly market,
which attracts as many as 2,000 people on a good day. But as the days get
shorter and the weather worse, fewer vendors show up, usually 15 to 20, and
those who do shrink their display areas. Only the die-hard shoppers keep
coming.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Together they form a community of sorts. Many of the farmers and
customers know each other's names, schmoozing over steaming ginger-lemon tea
from Trinidad native Wayne Farrell's Everything Ginger stand or hot cider at
Mick Kipp's Whiskey Island salsa and condiments stand.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"This is the heart of the city," says Guilford resident Jean
Edwards, toasting the market with her cup of mulled cider. Then she continues
chatting with Kipp, in no hurry to move on despite her wet feet and reddening
ears.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Franklyn Murray has been coming to the market since it first
opened - easy for him to do because he lives across the street. He joins Edwards
and Kipp under the Whiskey Island awning for his customary Saturday morning cup
of hot cider and then considers a grilled portobello sandwich from the Woodland
Mushrooms stand nearby.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"You get to try things you can't get at the supermarket," he
says.</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>In the winter, farmers are allowed to sell produce they buy from
wholesale markets, so you'll see oranges, bananas and red peppers on display;
but they aren't the real draw for the hard-core winter shoppers.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Even in January there's still plenty of local produce available:
root vegetables, a variety of apples and pears that have been in cold storage
(they still taste better than most of what you can buy at the supermarket),
mushrooms, unusual greens like tatsoi and mesclun mix grown in Maryland
greenhouses.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"Some years we've cut in the field till January. We cut spinach
after a snow one year," says Jamie Forsythe at the Gardener's Gourmet stand.
Until a hard frost, he says, cabbage, kale, broccoli, brussels sprouts and
collard greens do fine. "When those vegetables have to struggle to survive, they
taste better. "</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>This time of year, though, produce takes a back seat to what
else is available, like the milk, eggs and yogurt from South Mountain Creamery.
Owner Tony Brusco also works with other farmers who can't get to the market,
selling jars of honey from a local beekeeper and cheese from a small farm in
Pennsylvania. Sometimes the cold actually works in the customers' favor. As the
temperature drops, says Brusco, "more of our meat comes out."</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Sara Dorsch, who lives in Oakenshaw and has three kids, buys the
family's milk here, three half-gallons of 2 percent. "They don't put any
hormones in it," she says, as she turns in the old-fashioned glass bottles from
the week before.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>There's no particular reason Waverly is the only local farmers'
market open year-round, says Vernon Marc Rey, president of the market's board of
directors. It just evolved.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Farmers began to ask for more Saturdays to sell cold-weather
crops and produce in cold storage. Customers suggested a later closing, too. As
more vendors joined the market who weren't dependent on seasonal goods, like the
dairies and prepared-food stands, it made sense to stay open throughout the
year.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>"But days like this are kind of trying," says Rey, looking
around as the cold drizzle begins to turn to serious rain.</FONT> </P><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>--------------------</FONT> </P><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>Shiitake Puffs</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>Makes 8 to 10 servings</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>4 tablespoons olive oil </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>4 diced shallots </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>6 cloves garlic, minced </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>2 tablespoons chopped rosemary </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>dry sherry or white wine to taste </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>8 ounces heavy cream </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>4 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>salt and pepper to taste </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>hot puff-pastry shells </FONT></P><BR><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>Cut the stems from the caps of the shiitake and slice or break
into bite-size pieces, about 1/2 to 1 inch. Heat olive oil in a skillet over
medium-hot heat. Saute the shallots and garlic for about a minute. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Add the shiitake pieces and saute for another minute. Add the
rosemary and stir until the shallots and mushroom begin to soften. Add sherry or
white wine. Stir constantly. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>When the juices are almost evaporated, add the cream and reduce
the heat. When the cream is vigorously boiling, add the cheese and parsley. Stir
until the cheese melts and the sauce thickens. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Add salt and pepper to taste and serve in hot puff-pastry
shells. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>- Woodland Mushrooms </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Per serving: 375 calories; 5 grams protein.; 30 grams fat; 9
grams saturated fat; 22 grams carbohydrate; 1 gram fiber; 33 milligrams
cholesterol; 151 milligrams sodium </FONT></P><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>--------------------</FONT> </P><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>Frittata of Stir-Fry Greens and Fontina</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>Makes 4 to 5 servings</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>4 tablespoons olive oil </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>3 to 4 cups mixed hearty greens (for example, tatsoi, kale,
spinach) </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>2 tablespoons chopped garlic </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>salt and pepper to taste </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>8 large eggs, beaten </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>1 cup diced fontina cheese </FONT></P><BR><BR>
<P><FONT size=2>Preheat the broiler. Heat oil in a cast-iron skillet over
medium-high heat. Add greens and stir constantly until wilted and tender, about
3 minutes. Add garlic, salt and pepper. Pour eggs over the greens, stir to
blend. Sprinkle with cheese. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Cover the skillet and cook until the eggs are set but the top is
still runny. Place the skillet under the broiler until the cheese bubbles and
browns. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Cut around the edges to loosen, slide onto a warm platter and
serve immediately. </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>- Gardener's Gourmet </FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Per serving: 326 calories; 18 grams protein; 27 grams fat; 9
grams saturated fat; 3 grams carbohydrate; 1 gram fiber; 369 milligrams
cholesterol; 332 milligrams sodium</FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=2>Copyright (c) 2005, The Baltimore Sun</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT size=2>Link to the article: <A
href="http://www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/dining/bal-fo.market26jan26,1,3236829.story"
target=_blank>http://www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/dining/bal-fo.market26jan26,1,3236829.story</A></FONT>
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